There used to be a readily available and easy to use chemical that worked really well on PETG and even PLA, but that too was potentially explosive and banned in California in 2011. I won’t mention it here but you can find out about it on your own), and PETG has one as well. ABS has acetone vapor, and PLA has it’s own chemical (which is highly explosive if not stored and cared for properly.

It’s a very fine line between not enough vapor and too much, as too little and you won’t notice a change, and too much and you’ve either completely melted the part or made it too brittle to be functional. What’s really nice about vapor smoothing is that it gets into all the surfaces and interior faces that are otherwise impossible to get into and sand. This means using some chemical vapor to start melting and dissolving the outer surface of a 3D print to smooth all the layer lines together. In any case, this appears not to work any more. It's also possible, that despite finding positive results in other communities using this method and materials, there was some different variable in their process. It's possible that due to some changes in PETG filament structure that makes it easier to print also makes it harder to dissolve. Preface: This information may be out of date as this method doesn't seem to work as well as it used to. Print quality, layer height, material, and nozzle size all affect how long it takes to move from one grit of sandpaper to the next, or what method of filling you need. For something printed fast and with tall layers like with a MOARstruder or Volcano nozzle, which can print up to 0.9mm layers with a 1.2mm nozzle, there are some intense differences between layers, and for that, body filler is necessary to fill them in, but for a 3D print with a normal 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers, some spray on filler primer is a much better use. Using filler primer, spot putties, or body fillers, we can fill in the gaps if they’re minor, if they’re a little more obviously felt, or if there are extreme differences between the layers, respectively. By sanding it, we can smooth out the big ridges to look and feel smoother, but this still won’t completely smooth out the surface, since there are still gaps between the layers. Layer lines at a microscopic level are essentially a series of cylinders laid on top of each other. You start with coarse sandpaper to knock down most of the layer lines on your 3D print. Between ABS, PLA, and PETG, ABS filament sands the easiest and PLA sands the hardest, putting PETG in a nice medium between the two. This is the same process documented in out How To Smooth and Finish Your PLA Prints.

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